Backpack Mack

Oaxaca is both a city and state in southern Mexico most well known for its mezcal and mole sauce. This week my boyfriend and his brother are flying down to the city of Oaxaca and we are spending a week traveling together from Oaxaca to the town of Puebla and finally Mexico City. I did quite a bit of research on Oaxaca and I figured it would be worth while passing it on: 

Travel / Transportation: 

• Flights: Unfortunately Oaxaca is not an international airport so getting here from the United States will require a connecting flight, however for those savvy folks in San Diego you can also fly out of Tijuana. It is an extra step on the front end but flying from Tijuana opens up flight options to quite a few Mexican cities without an international airport. You can either use the CBX Crossing or take the trolley down to Tijuana and grab an uber to the airport.  
• Airport Transportation: Oaxaca does not have Uber (*however Uber Taxi is sometimes an option so double check once you arrive) so there are a few options to get from the airport to your accommodations. The cheapest option is to take a Collectivo Shuttle which is basically a shared 12 seater van. Once you exit baggage claim you will see a hallway full of rental car stalls and at the end there is one labeled “taxis”. Here you can pay (with credit card if you prefer) for a Collectivo Shuttle OR a private taxi. The collectivo will cost around $120 Pesos or $7 USD per person. Although this option is cheapest it can take a while to get dropped off if you are at the end of the line. My ride took an hour whereas a private taxi would take about 20 minutes. 
• Additional Transportation: Oaxaca town is very walkable and to cross the main downtown area would take about 35-45 minutes depending on route and walking speed. Additionally there are plenty of taxis available in town (note they prefer cash). Additionally as I mentioned above, Uber Taxi is sometimes an option. To leave Oaxaca and go to another town your best bet is the ADO buses. Mexico has an extensive and quite comfortable bus system that will take you almost anywhere.

Things to Do:

• Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca: This museum highlights the history and cultures of Oaxaca state up to the present day, emphasizing the continuity between pre-Hispanic and contemporary cultures in areas such as crafts, medicine and food.
• Templo de Santo Domingo: Named one of the “most splendid of Oaxaca’s churches” it has a baroque facade and nearly every square inch inside is decorated intricate designs. Santo Domingo was built mainly between 1570 and 1608 as part of the city’s Dominican monastery, with the finest artisans from Puebla and elsewhere helping in its construction.
• Zócalo: This is a traffic-free zone, shaded by tall trees and surrounded by portales (arcades), the Zócalo is the perfect place to start soaking up the Oaxaca atmosphere. The adjoining Alameda plaza, also traffic-free but without the cafes.
• Zona Arqueológica de Monte Albán: 20 min drive outside el centro; The ruins of this ancient Zapotec capital make up one of the most important archaeological sites in all of Latin America. More info from UNESCO
• Mercado 20 de Noviembre: This is a central market and local food hall with breads, pastries, tacos, drinks and more!
• Central de Abastos market: This is a market on the edge of el centro containing shops and vendors selling all kinds of things including a lot of barbequed meat dishes. While the article linked highlights some wonderful dishes, my experience was that this market was less clean and not well ventilated. If you’re on the hunt for local food stalls I would personally recommend the 20 de Noviembre market instead. 
• Guelaguetza Festival: (we miss this by 2 weeks but will see the set up) The most famous festival in Oaxaca is the weeklong Guelaguetza each July, when the region’s indigenous groups celebrate their cultures through folk dancing and traditional dress. The Guelaguetza Festival is a celebration in which representatives from the many communities of Oaxaca come together and celebrate the diversity of their traditions and cultures. The Guelaguetza Festival, also called the Lunes del Cerro, or “Mondays on the Hill,” is celebrated in Oaxaca de Juárez on the last two Mondays of July.
• Hierve el Agua: Two stunning petrified waterfalls, the result of centuries of calcium-rich flowing springs that are now literally set in stone. Adding to the magic are two spring-fed, manmade infinity pools set into the rock. The pools overlook the blue-green mountains beyond, with a lone tree growing up from the cliff edge. (I personally did not have enough time to travel here, but definitely a popular destination)
• Mitla: A 1 hr drive from el centro, these ruins are famed for their intricately carved fretwork mosaics, which are slotted together perfectly without the use of any mortar. The exact meaning of the mosaics is unknown but thought to be related to the afterlife, as Mitla means “underworld” in Zapotec. (I personally did not have enough time to travel here, but definitely a popular destination)
• Mezcal Real Minero distillery: Being in the Mezcal region of Mexico makes Mezcal tasting a must do. You can either go out to a plantation and production facility or enjoy a tasting in town at one of the dozens of mezcal shops/bars. This location was specifically mentioned in Food&Wine and located an hour from el centro offering both one day and weekend tours. (an alternate tour option with great reviews). 
• Tlacolula de Matamoros Market: Located about 30-45 minutes outside of Oaxaca.  ONLY OPEN ON SUNDAYS.  One of the old and largest markets in Mesoamerica.  A real cultural experience.  (I personally did not have enough time to travel here) 

Restaurants / Bars: 

• Casa Oaxaca Café: Recommended by Food & Wine for breakfast.  Reservations recommended. 
• Boulenc: Boulenc is one of Oaxaca’s most popular breakfast and brunch restaurants.  They make all their bread and pastries in house. 
• Sabina Sabe: One of the top mezcal bars in the city. This place is extremely popular with locals and tourists alike. Would recommend making a reservation here on weekend nights.
• El Distilado: Across the street from Casa Oaxaca – small batch mezcal and the best guacamole. Expect prices similar to San Francisco, CA. 
• Mezcaloteca: For an education in Oaxaca’s signature spirit, book a tasting at this bar/classroom in the city center: There are nearly 100 varieties on offer. mezcaloteca.com.
• Chefinita: Mobile taco stand. Packed full of locals and boasting slow cooked beef and pork tacos as well as pozole soup.

Other recommendations (did not personally experience, but highly recommended): 

• In Situ: Mezcalaria with an extensive tasting menu
• Origen: Upscale restaurant
• Levadura de Olla
• Pitonia
• Lechonito de Oro 
• Crudo (restaurant)
• Catedral: Oaxaca fine dining at its best, but still affordable 

Food/Drinks to Try:

• Mole: Oaxaca is best known for its seven classic varieties of mole, a thick, complex sauce served with meat and rice. The most iconic is the smoky-sweet mole negro, made of some 30 ingredients and taking nearly a whole day to prepare. (National Geographic)
• Tlayudas: Oaxaca’s version of a pizza: an enormous fried tortilla covered in lard, beans, lettuce, avocado, meat and cheese.(National Geographic)
• Oaxacan mezcal utilizes piñas that are roasted in a fire pit before being distilled. The result is delightfully complex and smoky. Try it at a local mezcaleria or visit a mezcal distillery (palenque) outside the city.
• Grasshoppers: Only in Oaxaca are grasshoppers one of the city’s most ubiquitous snacks. Listen for the melodic calling of the word chapulines and give them a try if you’re feeling adventurous. Salty, crunchy, and drizzled with a bit of lime, these fried grasshoppers are an unusual albeit undeniably local foodie experience.